The Basics The Basics
How Hardy are They?
There are many Erica species that are not hardy in our area and we do not grow or offer them for sale. Minimum temperatures here go below -10 degrees Fahrenheit so the plants we grow are known as the "hardy heathers".
All of the heather we grow are hardy to at least zone 5 and colder, the Calluna vulgaris and Erica carnea being the hardiest. We have customers in colder, northern states like Vermont, Ohio and other frigid regions who grow heather in the garden with great success. Those of you gardening in the warmer states need not worry to much about winter injury or selection.
If you are not sure about what zone your garden is in, 
click on the map. Remember that
micro environments probably exist on your property such as a southern facing slope
surrounded by a wind break of woodland, a garden on the sunny side of a building or other
thermal mass.
Sun - Heather needs sun and open air circulation. Choose a spot with at least a half day of full, bright sun. A south eastern exposure is ideal. Calluna especially needs sun to show off its foliage color and for heavy flowering. The Ericas grow well in half day sun but, like Calluna, prefer full sun all day.
Soil - The success of any garden depends on proper soil preparation. Ideal soil for heather is slightly acidic, has excellent drainage and has generous amounts of peat moss or compost mixed in to retain moisture. Heather does not survive in a soil that is fertile. The plants will produce lush growth that may be too fragile to withstand the cold of winter, so do not fertilize with a high nitrogenous fertilizer. Instead, use a dry granular fertilizer as you would use for acid loving evergreens following the label instructions. There are some good organics available at most garden centers. We also use a seaweed/fish blend called Neptune’s Harvest as a foliar feed during the growing season. All those micro nutrients are absorbed and seem to strengthen growth and prolong flowering during these past dreadfully hot and humid but dry summers. A soil that is heavy with clay needs a lot of work. The simplest way to ensure good drainage on flat land is by planting in raised beds. These can be made by outlining an area with stone or wood, and incorporating a bit of the existing soil with a mix of sand, peat moss and good top soil or compost. A sloping site is easier as it drains naturally. Starting with a very sandy soil is a bit easier. Again, peat moss, good top soil and compost well blended with the sand is best (remember to moisten the peat moss before working with it). This same soil mix should be used when planting individual or small groups of plants. Dig a hole about 24" or more in diameter and as deep. Improve this soil with the peat/compost/top soil equally.
Planting - After you have decided the lay out of the garden and the soil is prepared, you may begin. After removing the plant from the pot, loosen the roots with your fingers a bit. If the soil ball is on the dry side, soak it first. If the roots are a solid mass, take a sharp knife and slice down the four sides about 1/2" and cut 1” off the bottom. This stimulates new root growth into the freshly prepared soil. I often take a handful of soil and work it into the cuts to separate them. Place the plant into the prepared hole and back-fill with the improved soil. Firm soil well around the roots, making a well around each plant to hold water until it can seep down to the root zone.
Mulching retains moisture near the surface of the soil, keeps the surface soil cool and prevents water and soil erosion. If you are planting a large area, mulching as you go along is easiest. Use a pine bark or pine needle mulch about 3" thick around and between each plant. If you are planting in the late summer or fall, you should follow the same procedure though you may want to cut back some of the long predominant branches that have grown that season. You want the existing root system to form new roots and not have the stress of supporting heavy top growth that you may be pruning in the spring anyway. Water the new plants well, making sure that water has penetrated down to the root ball and new soil.
